Leaving the busy Bosnian roads behind...we see a side of the mountain usually hidden from view.
But as the urban thrash became less part of the landscape, we realized you are never really alone! The goat in the middle came out to challenge us... and we thought land mines were our only problem!
There were the usual cross markers along the road to show us the safe way ...
... other markers to show the treacherous way...
.. a beautiful sky to add a surreal touch to the journey.
...until the cross comes into view!
but we decide to continue further because there are a few extra metres to the top.
...but all we find is a large pit, more crosses and head stones.
So now we are behind the cross..
...and under it.
Antonietta stays to take pictures and I follow a road that leads to the backside of Hum....
I tread carefully ....
These land mine signs fortify the need for treading with care on this back road and unexploded mines can be washed down with the heavy rains. This hilltop with the bunker in the background, provided a steep cliff for bombs, grenades and other weaponry to be hurled down onto the Blv. below the front line. (In 2004, I lived directly under this bunker)
Here you can see two more bunkers. The road goes further, but my curiosity will have to wait for another day - my boots arent made for walking.
Amazing luck! A civilian plane bound from Zagreb beads in on a landing at the Mostar airport. It is rare to see a civilian plane in this area because the air space over Mostar is heavily regulated by NATO.
We saved the spectular view for last.
For a few moments, contemplation comes easily because we are alone at the top of this particular world. The huge price the Balkan citizens pay for this 'innocent' unexploited playground, is having not having a society that understands the concept of service to others as well as themselves. I bless this and curse it at times, but for now - no cursing. The scene is sublime and without neon signs to spell everything out - or noise to clutter my senses - the imagination can play...or rest, as it needs. Sushi, hamburgers and fries belong to another time and place. And for now, a spiritual stake - albeit a decidely catholic one - claims the purpose of this hilltop, as it did 11 years ago when armies with terrifying weaponry ruled Mostar.
Our walk was not interrupted by another soul until we started down in the late afternoon. Surprisingly two women wandered up as though they were going shopping - absorbed in their conversation and barely noticing the vista around them. Coming back to traffic, coffee bars and a different Mostar than the one we left in the sunny morning light - we review the dynamic day over a well deserved dinner and a glass of wine!
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